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Machu Picchu |
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Completed: 1450 AD |
“Lost City of the Incas” |
Size: 325.9km2 |
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Time to visit: 3 days |
Urubamba Province, Peru |
Visitors/yr: 1.6mil |
Arriving in Cusco
Day 0 – 9:40am
Landing in Cusco
- After a 3.5h direct flight from Santiago Chile, I landed in Cusco Peru.
- Machu Picchu is an isolated site, so you need a base from which to make your way there.
- Pro move: Cusco is the best jumping off point to experience this World Wonder, and is itself a lovely place to visit.
Day 0 – 11:30am
Arriving at my Hotel & Acclimatising
- I took an Uber from the airport to my hotel, Kaaro House Cusco. The location is great, the staff pleasant, and the rates are very reasonable.
- A quick note: Cusco is located at 3,400m above sea level, so it’s normal to feel the effects of altitude sickness – headaches, fatigue, shortness of breath.
- With time your body adapts by producing more red blood cells. In the meantime, chewing cocoa leaves is a great natural way to reduce these unpleasant symptoms.
Day 0 – 12:00pm
Booking your Machu Picchu Visit
- A point of order: While it’s technically possible to book your visit to Machu Picchu yourself, for your first time I recommend going through a tour group.
- They will sort out all the logistical headaches, pre-book the entry tickets (which have daily quotas so book early!), and you’ll get a certified guide to explain the history and culture.
Day 0 – 12:00pm
Booking your Machu Picchu Visit (cont’d)
- I recommend the Machu Picchu 2 Day Tour By Train by Yapa Explorers. I found them professional, well organised, and informative.
- This option gives you the best chance of getting the Machu Picchu circuit of your choice (more on this later).
- You can also consider other tour options, including visiting the Sacred Valley on the way.
Day 0 – 12:30pm
Sampling Peruvian food
- Time for lunch! Peru is known for is rich culinary heritage, and I was looking forward to enjoying some delicious local food.
- I headed over to Mulli, an eatery offering authentic Peruvian fare, while also affording a lovely view of Plaza de Armas, the main square of Cusco.
- After a thick and flavourful chicken soup, I got to try one of Peru’s national dishes: Lomo Saltado, a tasty beef stir-fry.
- I also ordered a Peruvian Mule, which uses Pisco, a local spirit made from fermented grapes.
- A promising turn of events: I could see out the window preparations for a full day festival in Cusco. Time to check it out!
A Festival in Cusco
Day 0 – 2:00pm
The Parade Begins
- Before long, the square had erupted into a sea of traditional music, spirited dance, and festive celebration!
- You can see here young performers in colourful costumes dancing in formation, and leading the way into the square, overseen by the mighty façade of the Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús.
Day 0 – 3:30pm
Dancing the Day Away
- Here we see Qhapaq Qolla dancers in white Waq’ollo masks, representing the half human-half Llama merchants of ancient myth.
- You also see the Contradanza, a military dance. The satirical warriors wear face masks, colourful gowns, elaborate headdresses, and wield swords, sticks, and whips.
Day 0 – 5:00pm
So Many Dances!
- Dance companies from all over the city join in the fun. The diversity of dancers and customs really is astounding.
- You can see here a child being hoisted up by a dozen other characters. Regional inhabitants of all ages take an active role in these important festivals.
- These dances are as much about keeping sacred tradition alive as they are about fun and silliness.
- I love this apparent paradox, and I’m especially digging the Sesame Street “Ernie” doll cunningly incorporated into the traditional costume. 😁
Day 0 – 5:30pm
The Emperor Joins in the Party
- As the sun begins to set on Cusco after a day of lively celebrations, my attentions turned back to the historical setting of these festivities.
- In the centre of the square is a statue of Pachacuti, the 9th ruler of the Kingdom of Cusco who eventually became the Emperor of the Inca Empire.
- Here you can see him seemingly willing the first fireworks into the evening sky, an exciting sign of things to come.
Day 0 – 6:00pm
The Calm Before the Storm
- At this time, the wild festivities gave way to a formal call to mass, as Cusqueños and tourists alike entered the sacred cathedral to give praise.
- The vast stone interior of the Basílica Catedral de Cusco reflects its Gothic-Renaissance style combined with Baroque influences. Standing there amid its massive columns, it’s hard not to be awestruck, and feel a powerful sense of history and solemnity.
Day 0 – 7:00pm
Doorways
- As the service ended, I crossed through the mighty doorway of the cathedral.
- I left behind the monochromatic stoicism of the church’s hallowed chambers, and walked out into the colourful purple glow of the Cusco dusk.
- It was now time to cross a different threshold – from daytime dancing, to nocturnal festivities.
Day 0 – 8:30pm
A festival of Lights
- Soon, the streets of Cusco were a festival of light. Giant erected bamboo structures were ignited, bringing frenzied spinning pinwheels to life, shooting wild sparks of colour in all directions.
- In sync with this festive madness, an apparent madman ran chaotically through the crowds with a papier-mâché bull on his head bursting with noisy sparklers.
- This represents the Torito de Pucara, the defensive bull from Andean cosmology intended to ward off evil spirits.
Day 0 – 9:30pm
Ending the Night with a Bang
- It was now time for the firework display. Explosions of light filled the sky, as lively band music and traditional dancing continued.
- What a first day in Cusco! It was now time to retire to bed as I had a very early start the next day. Tomorrow, the first step of my journey to Machu Picchu begins.
The Next Waypoint: Aguas Calientes
Day 1 – 4:30am
Catching the Early Train
- Pickup at my hotel was 3:30am 😞. We took a 1hr shuttle to Ollantaytambo rail station.
- Here I am with my fellow tour group members, waiting for the train. The area is filled with street merchants serving breakfast items and selling souvenirs.
- The train itself was surprisingly modern and comfortable, with plenty of room and cosy leather seats.
Day 1 – 5:30am
A Ride with a View
- The train ride would take a little over 2 hours. Out the window, I was treated to beautiful views of the Peruvian wilderness.
- Every twist and turn was like a postcard, with views of mountains and streams as far as the eye can see.
- It was around this time, heading up into the mountains, with the sun rising on a new day, that it dawned on me that I was really doing it. Soon I would get to see the storied site of Machu Picchu – I was on my way.
Day 1 – 6:45am
Arriving in Aguas Calientes
- We pulled in to Aguas Calientes which literally means hot waters due to the nearby natural hot springs and thermal baths.
- Located at an altitude of 2000m, Aguas Calientes is nestled among mountains on all sides.
- The settlement is sometimes referred to as “Machu Picchu town” as it primarily serves as the touristic base to head up to see this World Wonder.
- When you get off the train, I was greeted by another statue of the legendary Incan Emperor Pachacuti.
Day 1 – 7:00am
Lining up for Our Tickets
- In an ideal world, you book your park entrance ticket 2+ months in advance and then you collect it.
- For people like me who are on a last-minute trip, you get to join a line to reserve tickets for the following day. You can actually watch on a monitor the tickets selling out, it’s quite stressful!
- This is where catching a very early train gives you a leg up, as the tickets sell out quickly.
Day 1 – 10:10am
Choose Your Circuit
- Beyond the sub-routes (full details here), there are basically 3 Machu Picchu circuits you can choose from:
- Circuit 1: Panoramic Route
- This lets you take a nice photo of Machu Picchu but you don’t get to visit the site at all. DO NOT choose this option.
- Circuit 2: Classic Route
- The most popular option. It gives you a full tour of the site itself. It’s the best option if hiking isn’t your thing.
- Circuit 3: Royal Route
- This is the option I recommend. You get to visit most of the city + access to a 1hr hike to the summit of Huayna Picchu, which gives you an amazing view of Machu Picchu below.
Day 1 – 1:30pm
Exploring Aguas Calientes
- Pre-booked tickets in hand and after a quick lunch with my group mates, I decided to explore this hillside town.
- There are stalls and markets everywhere, bustling with tourists buying souvenirs, local foods, and jewellery.
- What makes this humble town special is its connection to nature, sitting in the shadow of great mountains, amidst forests and streams.
Day 1 – 8:30pm
Dinner with the Group
- Having now collected our tickets for the next day, it was time for a well-earned dinner at Sami Restaurant.
- I got to experience Peru’s other national dish – ceviche! It’s chilled raw seafood marinated in citrus – super tasty.
- I also felt adventurous and tried Cuy al Horno or baked guinea pig, another classic Peruvian dish. The outside was crispy and the taste somewhere between chicken, rabbit, and duck.
- Another day gone by and it was time sleep. Tomorrow, Machu Picchu awaits.
Visiting Machu Picchu
Day 2 – 8:00am
Catching a Bus
- The next morning it was finally time to visit Machu Picchu.
- After a quick breakfast, our group lined up for the bus that would take us up into the mountains.
Day 2 – 8:45am
The Ride Up
- It’s a relatively short 30min bus ride up to the site.
- The view on the way up is spectacular, with ancient mountain peaks piercing through clouds as far as the eye can see.
Day 2 – 9:00am
The Park Entrance
- Getting off the bus, we made our way to the entrance gates.
- Each circuit was clearly marked, and for our circuit 3, the royal route awaited.
- Pro tip: the sun hits hard and there is no shade, so sunglasses, a hat, and sunscreen are a must. 😎
Day 2 – 9:10am
Entering the site
- A short walk into the park got us to the edges of the city.
- What struck me first was the awe-inspiring backdrop of the mountain peaks, giving a real sense of the sheer isolation of this site.
- The structures themselves were remarkably well preserved, with walls and buildings intact, rather than the ruins I was expecting.
Day 2 – 9:20am
Beholding Machu Picchu
- And all of a sudden, there it was.
- The frame of this viewpoint is so iconic that seeing it there in front of me felt almost unreal.
- I stared out at this majestic city lost in the mountains, built in the shadow of Huayna Picchu that I’d be climbing later.
Day 2 – 9:45am
Learning about the Site
- The guide explained that the citadel was built in the 15th century, and remains the most iconic remnant of the Inca empire.
- No written records exist detailing this site, suggesting that it was a private location, reserved only for Incan royalty and important leaders.
- As a result, everything we know about Machu Picchu actually comes from physical evidence uncovered by modern-day archaeologists.
- This is why Machu Picchu is sometimes referred to as The Lost City of Incas.
Day 2 – 10:15am
A Little History
- First rediscovered by Peruvian explorer Agustín Lizárraga in 1902, credit for popularising the site is often given to American explorer Hiram Bingham III’s 1911 expedition, who took these photos.
- It is believed that the site was constructed at the behest of Inca ruler Pachacutec, as a royal retreat.
- As many as 750 people lived there permanently, before abandoning the site after 80 years of occupation, likely due to Spanish conquests in the region.
Day 2 – 10:30am
Historical Structures
- Unlike many of the historical sites I’ve visited, few of the specific structures and rooms had distinctive markings, writings, or images.
- Archaeologists had to guess what each structure may have been used for. We see here some of the royal quarters, and a series of rooms built along the edge of the terraced site.
- Beyond the living quarters, key structures include the Temple of the Sun and the Temple of the Three Windows, where religious ceremonies were performed, and Intihuatana, an astronomical clock used to plan harvests.
Day 2 – 10:50am
A marvel of Agricultural Engineering
- Perhaps what elevates Machu Picchu to World Wonder status are the man-made terraces used for farming.
- Each was constructed with a different soil type, depth, and solar exposure, allowing different crops to be grown even in this remote location.
- The terraces were irrigated, and engineered to promote natural drainage while protecting against landslides.
- As an engineering graduate, I find what was accomplished here truly remarkable!
Climbing Huayna Picchu
Day 2 – 11:00am
The Climb Begins
- It was now time to climb Huayna Picchu, the large rock formation you see in the background of the classic Machu Picchu photo opportunity.
- It’s a ~1hr uphill hike with jaw-dropping views worthy of an Indiana Jones epic.
Day 2 – 11:20am
The road up
- The pathway up the mountain is clear and well maintained.
- Between the heat and the steep incline the journey can be physically strenuous, but it does not require any technical ability or special equipment.
- There were a few bottlenecks on the narrower and steeper portions, with people coming back down the mountain, and some groups needing to stop to catch their breath.
Day 2 – 11:40am
The Final Ascent
- The final phase of the hike involves a near-vertical set of narrow stone steps, referred to as the “stairs of death”.
- At times, the experience is closer to climbing a ladder, so much so that you inevitably end up crawling up on all fours.
- Dignity more or less intact, it’s this final push that makes getting to the top feel worth it.
Day 2 – 11:50am
Reaching the Summit
- Reaching the top of Huayna Picchu is a moment of triumph.
- Drenched in sweat and gasping for breath, I was greeted by a spectacular view of the valley below.
- Call it the result of raw physical exertion, or a natural reaction to the unbridled beauty of the wilderness below, but in that moment I really felt alive.
Day 2 – 11:55am
A View to Remember
- This is where circuit 3 comes into its own. The hike up makes for some beautiful views of the Sacred Valley, but this view of Machu Picchu is really something.
- Some people say that from this vantage point the city resembles the shape of a condor, the sacred Incan animal. Can you see it?
- What you definitely do get is a proper sense of scale, looking down at this forgotten city nestled among the mountain peaks and green valleys. What an extraordinary place.
Day 2 – 12:10pm
Heading Back Down
- It was time to start the hike back down towards the lost city.
- The steep incline made the hike down somewhat treacherous, but for the most part it was a relaxed stroll through history with yet more stunning views of the valley.
Day 2 – 12:45pm
Exiting the Park
- We now started heading towards the park’s egress.
- This pathway gives you a chance to explore the lower sections of Machu Picchu, including The Temple of the Condor, built to worship this bird sacred to the Incas.
- We now headed back on the bus for the brief ride back down to Aguas Calientes.
Day 2 – 2:00pm
Lunch in Aguas Calientes
- Back in Aguas Calientes, I sat down with one of my tour group mates to a late lunch at Full House Peruvian Cuisine, with a nice outdoor setting by the rocky stream.
- The food was full of colour and flavour. We started with the trout ceviche and stuffed pepper, and I had a beef stir fry (lomo saltado) to top it off.
- I also treated myself to a melon pisco sour, which I deemed the ideal recovery mechanism for the morning’s hike. 😇
Day 2 – 4:40pm
Heading Back to Cusco
- A few hours later, we boarded the train back to Ollantaytambo rail station, and from there a shuttle took us back to Cusco by the evening.
- I went to bed early, as tomorrow I had planned yet another early start, this time to visit Rainbow Mountain.
Bonus: Exploring Rainbow Mountain
Day 3 – 3:30am
An Early Start (again)
- Wakey wakey for yet another 3:30am shuttle pick-up – boo 😩.
- I chose Rainbow Mountain Travels as the tour provider. They were well organised, the guide was fun, and everything went smoothly.
- After a 5am breakfast buffet in Cusipata, we arrived an hour later in the foothills of Rainbow Mountain.
Day 3 – 6:00am
Arriving Onsite
- At well over 5000m altitude, this was the highest point of my whole trip across South America. The feeling of breathlessness was already palpable.
- We were given the option to rent a horse or walk up the mountain. I went on foot, a decision I immediately regretted, but looking back I’m proud I braved it.
Day 3 – 6:35am
Take my Breath Away
- The walk uphill took about 90min, but required stopping to rest every 20min or so.
- It’s very humbling when you come face to face with the limits of your own biology, gasping for breath and heart pounding after the shortest of efforts.
- I even had to turn my hat inside out because of the sweat, even though it wasn’t hot out at all.
- On the plus side, the landscapes were lovely, with rolling hills and snow capped mountains in all directions.
Day 3 – 7:15am
A Geological Kaleidoscope
- As I got closer to the famous mountain, I could already see the contrasting colours in the surrounding hills.
- These come from various minerals and sediments deposited over millions of years, leading to layers of colour.
- You can see red iron oxide, blue/green copper oxide, and yellow iron sulfide.
Day 3 – 7:50am
Seeing the Rainbow
- When I made it to the top, I wasn’t prepared for just how massive the mountain feature was.
- Its distinct symmetrical layers of vivid colour make it look like an elaborate cake wedge, or some sort of mountainous club sandwich.
- It really is a natural wonder, born of millions of years of geological shifts.
Day 3 – 8:10am
Slices of Time
- A steep climb up the opposite mount gets you a nice view of this natural feature.
- I studied geology as part of my Civil Engineering degree. It’s fascinating to me to see such a striking visual representation of the passage of time, each layer bearing witness to the era that created it.
Day 3 – 8:20am
Not a Cairn in the World
- These stacks of stones are called cairns and can be found all over the valley.
- They are man-made markers, originally meant to signal burial sites in Ireland. In the Arctic, the Inuit have a similar practice of erecting inukshuks to navigate, and mark important spots.
- Quite the parallel between these layers of stone and the coloured layers of Rainbow Mountain – Man and Nature each marking the passage of time.
Day 3 – 8:30am
Making Friends
- I ran into these 2 class clowns on the mountain.
- Llamas have long held an important place in Peruvian culture, not just as domestic animals, but also sacred representatives of the Gods and the Land.
Day 3 – 8:40am
Toasting the Mountain
- At this point our guide gathered our group together and offered us a swig of Chank Kusichiq, a local liquor made with sugarcane and honey.
- It was quite tasty, I recommend giving it a try if you’re ever in country.
Day 3 – 9:00am
Supporting the Local Economy
- It was now time to move on to a bonus geological feature in this region: the Red Valley.
- Rainbow Mountain park and access to the Red Valley in Vilcanota Mountain Range is entirely operated by locals.
- Tourism supports the local economy through park fees, shops selling drinks and souvenirs, and additional activities like horse riding.
Day 3 – 9:10am
The Red Valley
- At 5,200m altitude, the Red Valley is truly impressive.
- These red-painted canyons belong to the Andes, and owe their distinctive red colour to the iron oxide content of their minerals.
- It’s like staring at another world, full of vivid colour and limitless possibility.
Day 3 – 9:20am
Seeing Red (in a Good Way)
- You would think by now I would be blasé, having seen so many extraordinary views in such a short span of time.
- But looking out at the valley was like being on another planet – it really is something.
Day 3 – 9:40am
Thank You Peru
- It was now time to head back down the mountain. On the way, I was greeted by a gentleman on horseback.
- In my time visiting Peru, I found its colourful people to be very friendly and fun loving. Thanks for welcoming me to your country, and for all the incredible memories.
- Gathered at the base, we took the shuttle back to Cusco.
The Adventure Draws to a Close
Day 3 – 1:30pm
Strolling Through Cusco
- After freshening up at my hotel, I found myself strolling back through Plaza de Armas where the festival had taken place.
- So many memories here. One thing’s for sure, Peruvians really know how to party.
Day 3 – 2:00pm
Farewell Lunch
- For my last lunch in Peru, I headed to KUSYKAY Peruvian Craft Food, which has a lovely balcony table looking out just off the Plaza.
- I treated myself to an obligatory pisco sour, along with a trout ceviche, and a Peruvian spin on a French classic, beef in mushroom sauce.
- The food as usual was colourful on the plate, and flavourful on the palate. I will miss Peru’s rich gastronomical culture.
Day 3 – 7:10pm
Onwards to Montevideo
- Eventually, it was time to head to the airport.
- What an extraordinary visit to Peru. It was an intense itinerary, but well worth it, with memories made that will last me a lifetime.
- Next stop, Montevideo, Uruguay!
