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Taj Mahal |
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Completed: 1648 AD |
“Crown of Palaces” |
Size: 73m high, 42 acres |
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Time to visit: 1 day |
Agra, India |
Visitors/yr: 8mil |
From Gurgaon to Agra
Day 0 – 9:20am
Landing in Gurgaon
- In early 2020, literally days before the COVID outbreak was first reported in China, I flew 4h30min from Thailand to India.
- At the time, I worked for an online travel agency, and part of my job involved managing teams in India.
- On this trip, I made my way to Gurgaon, a city just Southwest of New Delhi.
- The plan was to check in with my team there, before using the weekend to head over to Agra and visit the fabled Taj Mahal.
Day 0 – 12:30pm
Out & About with my Team
- The Gurgaon team were always a fun bunch – hard working and good spirited. It was an honour to support them and always a pleasure to come see them.
- Case in point, here we are heading to lunch near our office.
- That evening, with my work week behind me, I went to bed early ahead of tomorrow’s trip to Agra.
Day 1 – 6:30am
Waking Up with India
- As the sun rose, New Delhi greeted me with a beautiful view of the India Gate, a war memorial to fallen soldiers of the Indian army.
- Despite its grandeur, the monument is shrouded in air pollution, a major problem in this capital city.
- Whenever I visit India, I see a nation of two extremes, its rich cultural heritage and socio-economic challenges interwoven and visible at every turn.
Day 1 – 7:00am
My guide to Agra
- I organised a driver to take me from Gurgaon to Agra, which takes about 3h30min.
- He also served as an experienced guide around the city which made logistics for visiting this World Wonder painless.
Day 1 – 7:45am
From Tomb to Tomb
- On the drive out, I got to see more of New Delhi’s extraordinary architecture, including Humayun’s Tomb.
- Built in 1570, it was the Indian Subcontinent’s first garden-tomb.
- A fitting monument to see me off, given the Taj Mahal’s epic story as the final resting place of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan’s beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal.
The Taj Mahal
Day 1 – 10:50am
The Royal Gate
- We arrived at the site of the Taj Mahal, with translates to Crown of Palaces, and approached the Royal Gate, the main entrance to the complex.
- Constructed from red sandstone and decorated with white marble, the doorway has the iwan shape typical of Mughal architecture.
- Even before seeing the World Wonder, this gate alone is an impressive structure.
Day 1 – 11:00am
Architectural Geometry
- As you enter the Royal Gate, you already get a glimpse of the Taj Mahal, and the first hint of an important architectural theme in play: geometry.
- As you can see here, the doorway was meticulously positioned to encase the Taj Mahal’s mausoleum in the distance.
- The positioning is so inch perfect that it almost looks like a painting.
Day 1 – 11:05am
A Little History
- Shah Jahan the Magnificent (fantastic name by the way 😁) was the Emperor of Hindustan at the height of the Mughal Empire.
- Betrothed to Arjumand Banu when he was 14, she became his second wife 5 years later on a date pre-selected by astrologers.
- She was his favourite consort, and he gave her the title of Mumtaz Mahal, meaning “Chosen One of the Palace”, when he ascended the throne in 1628.
- She bore him 14 children, before tragically dying in childbirth in 1631.
- He commissioned the Taj Mahal to be built over her tomb. It was completed in 1648, making it the grandest love letter in history.
Day 1 – 11:15am
The Symmetry of Love
- The Taj Mahal was designed to make Mumtaz Mahal’s tomb the focal point of the site.
- You can see how the the natural perspective lines of the trees and the water’s edge all converge on the centre of the mausoleum where she is buried.
- You can also see a stunning example of xy symmetry in the water’s reflection, with both top-down and left-right mirror images pinpointing the Queen’s final resting place.
Day 1 – 11:20am
Golden Design
- The Taj Mahal was also built to be aesthetically pleasing through the use of the golden ratio in its design.
- Sometimes called the divine proportion, the golden ratio is equal to ~1.618 and occurs often in Nature.
- A few examples pictured bottom right include the human ear, nautilus shell, and chicken egg.
- Top right: (a+b)/a = (b+c)/b = (c+d)/c and so on, all equal to the golden ratio.
Day 1 – 11:30am
A Means to Meaning
- We’ve already seen several examples of geometry, symmetry, and mathematics embedded into the design of the Taj Mahal.
- These principles are visible all over the complex, including the symmetry and proportion used in this series of archways.
- Beyond the aesthetic component, such a deliberate and geometrically perfect design conveys higher meaning: balance, harmony, duality, and the connection with the Divine.
- Shah Jahan created this paradise in memory of the love of his life. When I see all this intention and meticulous design, I feel genuine emotion in thinking of the passion that inspired it.
Day 1 – 11:45am
The Stars in Their Eyes
- I made my way to the mausoleum, which in this rare case is on an elevated platform, conveying even more importance to this tomb.
- The floor tile pattern here is really clever, with a simple recurring red diamond shape forming white 4-pointed stars.
- These are common in Islamic art, and can represent the universe, paradise, as well as protection and guidance like the 4 cardinal directions.
- You can also see me wearing the white shoe covers provided on site to protect the floor tiles. Very stylish! 😎
Day 1 – 11:55am
A Majestic Tomb
- Standing right up next to the main structure, you get a real sense of the scale of the mausoleum.
- Built on the Southern bank of the river Yamuna, it stands at an imposing 73m in height.
- Its octogonal hasht bihisht floorplan, or 8 heavens in Persian, with 8 rooms around the central space, represents the 8 levels of paradise in Islam.
Day 1 – 12:00pm
Till Death Do Us Part
- Inside, I got to see the cenotaphs of the two lovers. They are merely replicas, the real tombs are kept underground and inaccessible, officially pictured here.
- Mumtaz Mahal’s tomb is the geometric centre of the Taj Mahal, seen here on the right. The larger Shah’s tomb is to the West of his wife’s tomb, and is the only asymmetric element of the entire complex.
- It takes a deep love indeed for a King to place his wife at the heart of his own tomb instead of himself.
Day 1 – 12:20pm
Let There Be Light
- Looking closer at the walls of the mausoleum, the level of detail and artistry is staggering.
- The entire structure is made from white Makrana marble, which has the unique property of allowing light to pass through it.
- Red Carnelian seen here is similarly light porous, and was the favourite stone of Mumtaz Mahal.
- As a result, the Taj Mahal needs no artificial lighting during the day, as Divine light illuminates the area within.
Day 1 – 12:30pm
Duality & Symbolism
- Looking back at the Royal Gate, you get a real sense of the symmetry across the space and the broader park, beyond the iconic structure of the mausoleum.
- You can also see the diamond and star pattern reversed here, this time with white diamonds and red stars, reinforcing the idea of duality.
- Stars also appear around the water, this time 8-pointed, again a common symbol in Islamic art representing God’s Throne, paradise, and the points of a compass.
Day 1 – 12:40pm
The Black Taj Mahal
- A little known fact about the Taj Mahal is that an identical black version was planned to be built across the river from the current structure. The foundations of the site are still there.
- This would suggest that the Shah’s original intention was to be buried here opposite his wife, reinforcing his love of symmetry. He was deposed before this plan materialised, hence why he is buried next to Mumtaz Mahal instead.
Day 1 – 12:55pm
A Stroll Through the Gardens
- The gardens around the mausoleum are also lovely to visit.
- Peaceful and harmonious, it was a nice place to relax, briefly recovering on a bench from an early start that morning.
Day 1 – 1:10pm
The Iconic Photo
- Before leaving, I had to capture the classic pic in front of this World Wonder.
- A few pro tips: This spot is extremely popular, so getting this shot requires a lot of patience and more than a little diplomacy.
- Also, you’re basically staring into the sun at this time of day, so sunglasses would have been the smart play. 😎
Day 1 – 1:20pm
Saying Farewell
- As I prepared to head off, I took one last look at the Taj Mahal.
- As a Civil Engineering grad and an incurable nerd, I hugely admire the mathematical meticulousness of its architectural design.
- But more than that, there is a story here. A tale of love between two inseparable souls; a heart-broken King who decided to build a paradise on Earth for his wife to rest in; and over 400 years later, a monument keeping their story alive while inspiring us to love with passion as they did.
Agra Marble Artisans
Day 1 – 1:30pm
Local Artisans Hard at Work
- I wanted to explore Agra a little more and so visited Agra Marble Emporium, a local maker of marble handicrafts since 1987.
- I got to meet a few artisans demonstrating the process for making the marble works.
Day 1 – 1:40pm
A Painstaking Process
- Close up, you can see that once the marble piece has been shaped and the design drawn, it’s a matter of meticulously digging out a recess using manual tools.
- When the stones and gems are inlayed, the result is a beautiful pattern.
Day 1 – 2:00pm
A Souvenir of my Time in Agra
- This is the piece I purchased. It has the same white Makrana marble and red carnelian used in the Taj Mahal, which as you can see allow light to pass through. It’s really beautiful!
- It took a single artisan 35 days to make, and the design includes lotus flowers which symbolise perfection.
- The piece has 1,720 stones, including red carnelian, brown jasper, dark blue lapis lazuli, light blue turquoise, green malachite, white mother of pearl, and iridescent paua shells.
Agra Fort
Day 1 – 2:40pm
Arriving at the Fort
- The final stop before heading back to Gurgaon was Agra Fort, a red sandstone Mughal fortress located about 3km north-west of the Taj Mahal.
- Built in 1565 and 94 acres in area, its semi-circular façade is made of striking red sandstone, which was once equipped with canons.
Day 1 – 2:45pm
A Diverse History
- The interior of the fort is surprisingly decorative and lavish for what I assumed was a military building.
- As it turns out, the function of the fort has changed over time, serving as a royal residence, a place of coronation, and as a prison.
- It bears some relation to the story of the Taj Mahal. When Shah Jahan, who built the World Wonder in memory of his wife, fell ill, a bloody war of succession soon followed.
- Aurangazeb, his 3rd son, emerged victorious and deposed his father, placing him under house arrest in Agra Fort for 8 years until his death in 1666.
Day 1 – 2:50pm
The Hall of Public Audiences
- This is the Diwan-i-Am, which translates to The Hall of Public Audiences.
- This is where the Emperor would listen to and address the complaints of the common people.
Day 1 – 2:55pm
Courtyards
- Within the fort, there are multiple courtyards, with beautiful gardens and Mughal structures.
- The gardens were once filled with Indian grapevines used for making wine.
- The imposing defensive features of the exterior of the fort belie its regal and opulent interior.
Day 1 – 3:00pm
The Imperial Quarters
- Here we see the Khas Mahal, or The Special Palace, which were the living quarters of Shah Jahan and his family.
- Its white marble arches are adorned with intricate etchings and floral inlay work, and also used to have gold and precious gems though these have long since been looted.
Day 1 – 3:10pm
Inside the Residence
- The interior is beautifully designed, with ornamented ceilings and walls.
- In its day, there would have been chandeliers hanging from the ceilings, along with other adornments.
- The space is relatively small, consisting of a sitting room and 3 chambers making up the bedroom suite.
Day 1 – 3:15pm
Alcoves
- There are several alcoves and niches within the residence, each with the characteristic iwan archway.
- It is believed that they used to house portraits of of former Mughal emperors.
- The sculpture work found here is exquisite and extremely well-preserved.
Day 1 – 3:30pm
Best Palace name Ever
- This structure is the Jahangiri Mahal, or Palace of the Conqueror of the World.
- It was the principle living area for female members of the Royal family.
- You can just see in the background to the right of the doorway a huge white bathtub, which used to contain fragrant rose water to bathe in.
Day 1 – 3:40pm
Roof of Jahangir Palace
- The Interior of Jahangir Palace is arguably the most majestic of the red sandstone buildings.
- This massive decorative domed ceiling is a beautiful architectural feature.
Day 1 – 3:50pm
A Fountain of Old
- It’s hard to miss this massive octagonal fountain feature located in one of the courtyards.
- The waterway to the fountain is still visible behind me, though today all that remains is the recess in the ground.
Day 1 – 4:10pm
The Daughters’ Pavilions
- On the upper levels, there are golden roofed palanquin shaped pavilions located on both sides of Khas Mahal.
- These were the living quarters of two daughters of Shah Jahan.
Day 1 – 4:15pm
A Wondrous Sight
- From this location, you get a great view of the Taj Mahal, Yamuna river, and the surrounding area.
Day 1 – 4:20pm
A Room with a View
- Near the pavilions is Musamman Burj, the Jasmine Tower where Shah Jahan was put under house arrest by his son.
- Mercifully, throughout his time here, he will always have had a beautiful view of his wife’s final resting place – perhaps a small solace for a grieving man in the twilight of his life.
Day 1 – 4:40pm
(Be)Heading Home
- I left Agra Fort through Amar Singh Gate, named after a great warrior who apparently chased an insolent messenger into the fort and beheaded him at the feet of Shah Jahan.
- Clearly he found a loophole in the adage “don’t shoot the messenger”. That’s certainly one way to get a gate named after you. 😂
The Adventure Draws to a Close
Day 1 – 7:10pm
A Legacy of Love
- What a day! Driving back from Agra, I had time to reflect on all the things I had seen.
- Certainly the Taj Mahal is an architectural marvel, a celebration of harmonious design, and a rich repository of history and culture.
- But what elevates an amazing structure to World Wonder status? Perhaps it is the human and emotional component that inspired the architectural achievement itself, and the example of passion it invites us to follow through the story of two lovers it continues to tell.
